

What's it like to live in Belgium?
And what do I do next?
A crash course on Belgian culture and living
Moving from an English-speaking country to Belgium is not without its share of surprises. Whether you are originally from the UK, Australia or the US, there are elements to your everyday life that you may have taken for granted and even considered “normal” but don’t quite find in your new Belgian surroundings.
These differences are neither good nor bad, but they should probably be acknowledged and understood to make your transition easier.
The friendly banter so dear to the Brits might not find an equivalent in Belgium. The welcoming smiles, the prompt service in shops might at times seem harder to find. But what causes all of this?
The following article is based on 30 years of actual living as a native and going to school, working, socializing, experiencing every aspect of Belgian life. It aims to draw an accurate picture of what you will find. For a more idealized view of Belgium, please refer to Tripadvisor.
The issue of national identity
Belgium started out life in 1830 with its head held high as a proud nation of Western Europe. Fresh off a fight against the Dutch occupier, it claimed its right to independence and legitimacy. Later on, it became member of an elite club or European Nations and a founding partner of the EU. For all intents and purposes, Belgium was no joke.
Then, ever so gradually internal problems arose in which politicians of the two linguistic sides saw opportunities to fructify their careers. The division grew ever wider until the present situation today where Belgium is indeed two separate countries in which even buses operate by language. (TEC/De Lijn)
It has been argued that the internal divisions were worsened by a crisis of identity that developed over time. Never truly able to be a “big nation” like neighbouring France and the Netherlands, it assumed the role of little brother. Belgium played truant and slowly slid into a systemic “laisser-aller” (can’t be bothered).
Belgium found comfort in self-derision and called itself “zinneke” (mongrel) and believed itself to be “surrealist” as the great painter Magritte. As if to say that it was alright to be without a compass and enjoy one’s own company as a jester. The problem is, it wasn’t funny.
Many “final straws” later, of which the record-setting absence of a government, the divided police force scandal and Dutroux, the long-lasting mocking of “Belgium French” by France, the inability of each side to learn each other’s language and its secondary role as a handy “EU headquarters” host, Belgium gradually lost a sense of being.
The advent of the EU all but stripped away what was left of a “Belgian-Brussels”. The city was simply too small and too frail to welcome such an international powerhouse.
This accelerated diagnosis hopes to make clearer the behaviour of many Belgians who grew up in such a national “broken family”. It is perhaps not the ideal premise to being self-assured, outgoing, proud and, dare I say, happy.
Location is everything
Depending on where you relocated, your Belgian experience will vary greatly. Life in the Ardennes is indeed not the same as in Brussels and is certainly different from Flanders.
If you are in Brussels and renting short-term, you are most certainly in Ixelles or Saint-Gilles. Here, the language is French. Family houses from the early 1900s were converted into flats/apartments whose state of dereliction depends on the luck of the draw.
Cohabiting with your neighbours in Brussels depends on many factors, among which the question of whether you share a language in common. Warning to the faint of heart: expecting a mutually-respectful, structured and clean-cut living atmosphere in Brussels is the quickest route to many frustrations.
Keep in mind that the deep-rooted identity crisis of Belgium is very noticeable in public life. The “laisser-faire” (anything goes) is a rule by which no one expects standards of civic behaviour. There is a certain code of anarchy that you will come to recognize, if not immediately certainly later.
As a newcomer, you will be struck by a large amount of graffiti, weeds and fly tipping. (English term for “throwing your trash out in an illegal manner.)
This type of thing is a consequence of the magnet effect of the EU which has led to an atmosphere of systemic chaos. Some love Brussels for its “rustic” and “free-spirited” quality, other abhor it.
The presence of overgrown areas and weeds is the visible side of a recent trend in “ecolo” political leanings. Subconsciously perhaps, Belgians realize that it is an easier task to save the planet than themselves.
You will see many jungle-like areas which are no longer maintained for the sake of offering insects a needed living space. Those observers well-accustomed to Belgian doings already predict that this far-swinging pendulum will eventually have to be re-centered when the situation is judged officially out of control.
Until then, we let the weeds prosper.
Food and drink
Almost as a cruel joke played on its diminished national identity, tourists entertain the myth by which Belgium is the country of chocolate lovers, fancy dining and beer. How odd to be known for something that plays such a minor part in one’s everyday life.
Although it is true that famous “chocolatiers” sell their goods in Belgium, it is equally true that the average Belgian does not particularly eat more chocolate than a Brit consumes Cadburrys.
The role of beer in social life plays a more realistic part, with most Belgians keeping IPAs of even a few “special” abbey beers in their fridge.
While Brits automatically offer a cuppa to their guests, so do Belgians offer a beer. The social function of the beer is to make everyone comfortable and to quench the thirst. Wine is rather consumed with food than as a standalone drink.
The mayonnaise-covered “frites” are not unique to Belgium and can easily be seen in Germany, Netherlands and France. But almost as if all too eager to associate their name with the populist dish of one ingredient, it is the anti-heroic Belgium that gave it the status of symbol.
Indeed, doing a “typical Belgian thing” sometimes comes down to eating fries by the side of the road in grim weather conditions. And I cannot name a second example.
The bars (or cafés) serve a different function than those in France that are rather based on mixing socially. The action truly takes off at nighttime and the attraction is of course beer. The extreme tolerant side of Belgium is revealed in full in such occasions and public drunkenness is as acceptable as public sobriety.
Drink all you like, no one will beat an eyelid.
Work culture
There exists a chasm of difference between the work culture in countries like Belgium and France compared to the UK and the USA.
It is almost like a second layer that the keen observer must pierce before they understand what is truly unfolding. Until then, you may think you know what you are seeing, but it is something else entirely.
The reason this principle is so hidden is because Belgians themselves do not know they are doing it. It is their “normal” just as working for an American company brings other “normals”.
In short, Belgian members of staff have a much smaller difference between the private individual and the professional. This means that instead of playing a professional persona to represent a company, the Belgian remains themselves with their mood of the moment
An American or Brit will be quick to answer that they too remain themselves at work, but this is because they do not realize that they are in fact acting professionally at a level far superior than a Belgian would ever be expected to do.
When the Belgian professional is not in the mood to work, they will not have any qualms to make this known. In all cases you will be addressing a private person. a “real” individual if you will.
Whether this is less or more effective than a corporate attitude is subject to opinions, but it will likely happen more often to encounter disgruntled and unhelpful staff than in the US or the UK.
They are not refusing good service for a personal reason directed towards you but simply because they have every right to be in a bad mood. Be prepared!
Dynamic and vibe
In the opening paragraph, I suggested that Belgians are children of a broken national family. Growing up in a dysfunctional environment creates coping mechanisms that are felt in the overall vibe.
As a general tendency, Belgians are people who have grown up to keep their feelings private. They will roll their eyes, shake their head, “tut-tut” and aim to reach a compromise or status quo rather than engage in an argument.
The comedian Francois Damiens built his entire career on the fact that you could push the buttons of Belgians to such an extent that the hidden cameras he orchestrated soon fell into the realm of the surreal.
This type of humour was likely only possible in Belgium. In one sketch he pretended to be a masseur who was heard urinating loudly and not washing his hands. The customer showed signs of displeasure but went through with the massage.
In an other he impersonated a teacher who was outrageously rude to parents and even announced that he had already made arrangements to have one mum’s daughter sent by train to a different school. Barely a squeak by the mum..
Far from being anecdotal, the work of Francois Damiens brings to light like no other social experiment the self-effacing psyche of the Belgians. He understood that it would take so much abuse before his victims reacted that he could turn the joke into the most far-fetched and surreal comedy this side of Monty Python.
The day my parents’ new neighbours moved in, they revealed themselves to be extremely noisy with two young kids of 6 (literally) screeching as if being tortured. The lady once told my mum in a friendly tone “yes, sorry about the noise. We’re Greeks, that’s the way we are.” As if it was understood that anyone was allowed to impose their rules on shy Belgians who would be too rude to object.
When I narrowly escaped a fire in my apartment in Brussels. the owner (who was entirely responsible for not upholding safety standards) treated the whole affair as if we were discussing a football match. “Oh dear, too bad for the fire eh?”
It has been said that the true friendliness of Belgians comes out in states of drunkenness and that until then, a disconcerting coldness surrounds most interactions.
After 5 years in the UK, I was somewhat shocked the day I introduced myself to another of my parents’ neighbour as I said: “I’m his son, and when I was your kid’s age we used to play here too…” He looked at me, unsure of what to say next and muttered: “Ah really? That’s nice…come children we’re going inside” End of discussion.
In my appreciation, the effect of a country so divided and so lacking in a sense of belonging has likely produced a nationwide alienation and a clumsiness unknown even to the Belgians.
A Brit feels themselves easily grounded in the UK and recognizes their own, socially and culturally. Belgians rather tend to produce a ghostly energy, as if not really present in the moment.
Language
We touched upon the fact that there are 2 national languages that divide the country into two. There is Flemish to the North and French in the bottom half.
Both linguistic halves will refer to themselves as “Belgian” without matching the definition of the other. To one, it will be living in Flanders as a speaker of Flemish and to the other it will mean Brussels or Wallonia.
The two halves can be treated as separate countries on a cultural level. Both read a different press, watch different TV channels, have different “influencers”, different local artists…and the cases of unifying Belgian personalities are rare.
A French-speaking Belgian would not be able to say who is “hot” at the moment in Flanders and a Flem would not be able to say who is the talk of the town in Wallonia.
When I transferred from my Bachelors in French to my Masters in a Flemish university, my file was placed in the same pile as all other “foreigners” despite the two universities being less than a mile from one another. (ULB/VUB)
The language narrative often told is that French used to be the ruling language of Belgium when Dutch was for the less educated. I am old enough to remember the time when Dutch kids were better at French than the opposite. A century earlier still, the Flemish intellectuals and industry leaders all knew French.
All of this changed in the late 80s as linguistic tensions grew. The economic leadership was claimed by the Flemish half who now saw the speakers of French as dead weight. More and more, Flanders worked towards their independence.
As if hurt by past humiliations, Flanders is very sensitive about the use of Dutch. Making the effort to speak simple phrases in broken Dutch is not seen as good enough, nor is using English an acceptable plan to fall back on. (as it once was)
Attempting to extend a friendly diplomatic hand by trying one’s best Dutch almost has the opposite effect, and rather signifies “I despise your language and never wished to learn it.”
Sadly, the separation between the two halves is too far gone, with Flanders moving past the state of “active disliking” and going on with its life as a divorcee. Wallonia, who was never too concerned with the Flemish language and never had feelings in favour or against Flanders likely never opened the goodbye note.
The impact of language in Belgium is felt everywhere in an abrasive kind of way. In Brussels, one has no guarantee if a person on the street will speak one of the official languages or even English.
For the rest, it creates linguistic obstacles for official paperwork, schools, public transport, advertisement campaigns, street signs and naturally national unity. Even asking for a simple direction is hard!
Advantages
But surely there are some advantages to Belgium? Naturally there are, and as for all things it depends on our values.
Some expats feel right at home in Belgium and forever marvel at its “quirkiness” and “amazing selection of beers”. And to people whose countries don’t have kindergardens, Belgium might be the paradise of child care. It really depends what we compare it to.
For Americans the Belgian “socialized medicine” is seen as a godsend, and why not? When I last saw my Belgian dentist for a checkup and 4 X rays, he presented me with a bill of 75 euros, urging me to get myself a “mutuelle” to get a reimbursement. Little did he know, I would gladly have paid three times that price. The plane fare and the bill were less than what I would have paid in the US.
When I look around at the older generation in Belgium, I see many more active citizens riding bikes and using their legs. They look in far better health the Americans I see hobbling about in supermarkets and much more thin. It is easier also to afford the medication.
Universities are also much more affordable with annual enrollment fees surrounding 800 euros. Whether the quality of the service received is as good as UK or US schools remains to be seen, but it is at the very least not exclusive to the wealthy.
Stress, that silent killer, would likely not be very high on the list of problems. With strong worker’s rights and a general lower expectancy of professional performance, Belgians can still “shut off the job” during weekends and enjoy stress-free time.
Days off and holidays would be another big one, especially with Americans who are legally entitled to none. Not quite matching France and the UK’s 36 days, and Australia’s 38 Belgium totals 30 compared to 22 (in theory) for the US.
Food quality is a big one too, though pre-Brexit I found the food to be much more affordable than in Belgium – and tastier too. “Where are my 50p cucumbers and my kilo of onions for 90p ???” A lot of bruit and veg were several times more expensive (Colruyt prices around 2021)
Without needing to check the facts, I would guess that the laws regarding deceitful added sugar and proper food labeling are much more stringent than in the US, where sugar is added to…even sugar! There is a lot less “rubbish food” available such as as Cheerios, sodas and sugar-filled bread.
Overall there is much more of a health culture and especially now that the “bio” (organic) trend has swept over the country. Parents are regularly seen cycling their kids to school in an almost “back to simplicity” kind of way. Without becoming gym rats or health junkies, there is an appreciation for “proper food” to bring lasting good health.
As a last advantage, I would cite the fact that Belgium is an ideal country in which to be forgotten and left alone. There isn’t a culture of performance and no one expects others to be an achiever or to go above and beyond. No one will ever question your choice to be (un)happily mediocre and not go on a quest for Life’s riches.
Weather and Climate
Dreary. Wet, damp and grey most of the year.
When you land in the US and look at the sky, you will see clouds “in the sky” as opposed to everywhere. In Belgium, the cloud is the sky. Clouds start at one end of the horizon, go right over your head and finish at the other end. Like a constant grey sphere that acts as roof of clouds
“Blue sky at last!” takes all its meaning here and months of rain and grey are common occurence.
Winters can go from cold and grey with some snow to cold and grey with no snow. Summers might get extremely hot or remain mild and grey.
Belgium does not have a horizon and clouds are not “in” the sky. There is no proper separation between land and sky: just clouds starting where the land ends.
We might say that the UK is rainy and grey but it is different and more varied. The countryside is more prevalent and pleasant to the eyes.
Be prepared for months of grey, rain, little sunshine and occasional blue sky from September to June/May. In July and August there might be sunnier weather.
Education
Many websites have a tendency to glorify Belgium’s education system without perhaps experiencing it themselves. I will write as one who did all 12 years of compulsory schooling there, 6 years of university and based on countless exchanges with other Belgians as well as an insider’s cultural knowledge of the facts.
If you think you are about to experience the miracles of the Scandinavian schooling philosophy, think again. It is not what you will find.
The fact that schools and universities in Belgium are low in cost and available impacts the quality of the service. Being a customer at a college in a UK/US kind of way also obliges the university to provide a standard of service.
Since school is free in Belgium, you are not in a position to expect anything from them.
When I failed my third years of Bachelors due to burnout, they didn’t phone or warn me. I went in person and the lady looked at her list and said: “Chris? Ah yes, it appears that you failed. Good day sir.” And that was it. No one cared whether I attended, failed or passed.
My brother did his Masters and PhD in a completely different university and field of study, and found the same attitude exactly. Courses were of poor quality, professors were “little gods” and no appreciation was ever shown for his satisfaction.
In the UK, you will find statistics that are published such as “voted 3rd in England for student satisfaction”. There are also many efforts to help students with mental health and coping with the pressure. This type of thing is unheard of in Belgium, where you are left to sink or swim.
State-funded universities in Belgium have no incentive to wish for student happiness. They know there will be hundreds more freshmen next year that will replace the current batch. You are a number among thousands. Mentors, counsellors and advisors? The word doesn’t even exist! It you, on your own. Good luck.
As for the high schools, they were mainly built pre-1970 at a time when brutalist factory-like architecture was the norm. Expect to find sad grey buildings, limited or no sports facilities, zero extra curricular activities, zero after-school clubs and no organized transport for kids.
Belgians do not go to school or university to be happy and experience diversity. The focus is strictly academic and learning by heart is the guideline that all schools follow. Everything is memory-based, contrary to multiple choice exams, as they are commonly found in the UK and US.
If you do a degree in Belgium, prepare to have to retain piles of information that will have to be laid out on the day of the exam. Other than that, yes it is free or at least very cheap.
Religion and faith
Until the 1960s or so, Belgium was much noticeably catholic. Nowadays, the situation is similar to France in which people are just “culturally catholic”.
Religion is never a conversation you should have with a Belgian for the simple reason that it is considered highly private. Asking a Belgian about their faith is just rude.
Most of the public holidays in Belgium can be traced back to biblical events: Easter, the Assumption, Christmas…
In the UK, it is OK to talk about the parish you attend and to share your faith in a matter-of-fact kind of way. The parish plays a social role that finds no equivalent in Belgium. Do not expect to find jumble sales, coffee mornings, a bell ringers club or a choir. The physical church in Belgium is just the place where worshipers go on Sunday.
Religion is not actively present in an American type of way, where Jesus has acquired a superhero-like status. It would seem odd to invoke the mystical powers of “god in the sky” to help win at a sports event or even to say “god bless you”. Best never mention religion at all if you don’t want to come across as a fanatic.
All religions are represented with complete tolerance in Belgium so long as they don’t impede on others. These co-exist peacefully and are expected to stay out of public life. Tensions sometimes arise with a minority portion of the third and fourth generation Muslim Belgians who feel they never found a way to be properly included and represented.
The situation is somewhat similar to France in which the older European Nation States voted for a strong separation of State and Church, while at the same time welcoming thousands of Muslim workers from North Africa in the 70s.
Today the question often arises of how to coincide a secular State with citizens to whom religion plays a much more central role. In the absence of any definite or realistic solution, bumps in the road are sometimes encountered albeit less so than in France.
As a rule of thumb, the question of religion is not an active concern of Belgians. Just be sure not to speak about it and not bring it into your social exchanges. We don’t talk about religion. money or politics!
Follow this Golden Rule and all will be fine.
What do I do next?
Whether a country appears liveable always comes down to personal taste. No guide will ever answer the question fully.
If you are already settled in Belgium, perhaps this article helped fast-forward your understanding of your surroundings and saved you a few years before making your final decision. Until we contrast a country with another, we have no point of reference and cannot properly evaluate if the people are happy or if life is expensive.
Even people who spent decades in Belgium find themselves in a social aquarium and not always aware of what Belgium is like.
This guide was written in good faith and based on a native’s understanding of life in Belgium. I have summarized over 30 years of direct experience and a deep understanding of the psychology of the country.
It is important to be aware that many travel blog pages are written with the express purpose of being a source of happy reading that will reflect well on the happy outlook of their authors. OuiCommunicate is taking a risk in associating our name with a more critical view than the usual waffles and beers. But hopefully, providing more substance in doing so.